Why hay makes my muesli taste better

There is a connection between the little wooden huts that dot the meadows around Embach, my breakfast, happy cattle and farming tradition.

Dairy farming in this part of the Alps operates largely on traditional lines. Embach is surrounded by meadows of as many as 50 grasses, flowers and herbs. These are mowed two or three times in the summer and the hay used to feed the cattle in the stalls during the winter. The fields are so lovely in spring, it isn't hard to imagine the cows happily smacking their lips at the fragrant flavour. During the summer, most of the herds are on the high farms, cow bells a-ringing, way above the village.

Nowadays most of the farmers around Embach turn the cut grass once, gather and roll it into a tight cylindrical shape which is wrapped in plastic and stacked near the farm. This is quick and enables the hay to be gathered when relatively moist. The end result doesn't look quite so appetising and is said to degrade some of the nutrients

Once upon a time, the meadows were cut, left to dry, turned, left to dry some more, raked together, sometimes hung over drying racks and finally brought into the barns and stacked loose. Not only do the cows benefit because the consistency (and probably flavour) is better, but the quality of the nutrients is retained and detectable in the milk.

It was not unknown for the hay to self-combust and if it was stored adjacent to the stall and farmhouse, there was an added risk of the whole farm catching fire. So the hay would be stored in small wooden huts out in the fields, where a fire, while regrettable, did not spread further. Hence the heustadl (or hay stalls) which are such an attractive feature of the farmland in the Pinzgau region. Sadly, some are falling into disrepair though the tough old wood is pretty indestructible.

One family farm in Embach continues to farm its fields in the traditional way, storing hay in the heustadl. It isn't uncommon to see grandma driving the tractor, other family members raking the hay around the field edges, and the men piling up the hay in the barns.

This three-generation family uses all the milk they produce for themselves and their animals but in nearby shops we can buy Heumilch (hay milk)– which is milk produced in this traditional fashion. It has a higher level of Omega-3 and is therefore better for the heart and circulation. It tastes like milk really should and is lip-smacking good when poured over our breakfast muesli.

Alpe Adria - mind the gap!

In Italy much of the route is well signposted, but watch out for the 100km gap

There's something special about riding a bike from a mountain in a landlocked country, to the sea. From 1000m altitude to 0m. So when the Ciclovia Alpe Adria project became reality, and as this new cycle route almost passed the door, riding 350km from Embach to the Adriatic rose to the top of the bike touring programme.

Could anything be better than Austria's long distance bike routes? Well-signposted, and with generally good but often gravel surfaces, they follow the valleys and criss-cross the nation. The Alpe Adria uses these trails beginning in Salzburg and turning south and east to Villach and then south again into Italy.

Austria's section of the Alpe Adria here along the river Drau

European borders are a disappointing collection of unused buildings and folorn bars. But here the Alpe Adria italian-style begins. What a nice surprise! Smooth asphalt, yellow lines marking the edges of the trail and even a centre line making some of Austria's gravel tracks look primitive.

From Trevisio the Alpe Adria follows a former single-track railway crossing the Alps with a gradual gradient, numerous bridges and tunnels, and views that would have been more wonderful if it had not been for a main road and an Autostrada sharing the same valley. Could Italy be the best place in Europe for long distance cycling?

In Italy the completed section of the Alpe Adria follows a former train line

At a small town called Resiutta one finds the answer: “No!” As the marked trail comes to an end, so does the signposting which if anything had been superfluous. It is necessary to take to the roads and in one place, to follow the Alpe Adria along a rubble-strewn track through unlit tunnels and to find the way in and out of the large and bustling town of Udine. Basically, riders are largely left to their own devices for something like 100km. Then, coming out of Palma Nova there are the signs again and a bike path which runs beside the almost dead straight road all the way to Grado and the sea. It's just the gap in the middle which lets the whole project down.

Getting home again without retracing steps is a problem. But Slovenia, too has bike trails. Could they be any good? So cross country to Nuovo Gorice in Slovenia, and a train to Jesenice. Riding out of town towards the Italian border at Trevisio, there is a bike track sign. And behold! A superb bike trail, smooth asphalt, white lines on either side and a white centre line. A gradual climb up to the ski town of Kranjska Gora then cruise down to Italy again along an old railway line.

Slovenia's D2 bike track joins the Alpe Adria near Trevisio

These bike trails in Italy and Slovenia have been funded partly by the EU to bring clean, green tourism into the villages where hungry cyclists will be looking for food, drink and a bed. The routes are so good that they make some of Austria's look rather rough and ready though the country probably leads the world with its network and the investment that goes into it demonstrated by Austria's popularity with bicycle tourists from around the world.

Wayside map of the interconnecting bike trails of Austria, Italy and Slovenia

Misery? It's a sight for sore eyes

The bench by the chapel at Maria Elend has a marvelous view along the Pinzgau valley

The weather seems to be driven by someone taking their first driving lesson. One day he engages first gear and we leap forward into summer with temperatures around 30C, then next day, reverse is accidentally engaged and we jump back towards winter and need to light a fire.

Despite the sputtering start, spring is well under way and the meadows are bright with flowers, the trees bursting with fresh green and the tinkling of cow bells can be heard once again.

Visitors are beginning to arrive in Embach and one of the most popular walks from the village centre leads to the tiny chapel of Maria Elend and its adjacent spring. Legend has it that a blind and backward child went missing and the mother promised to fund a chapel if she was found. The girl, Ursula Peyninger was found by a spring which had restored her sight and her senses and a chapel has been on the site since the 1500s.

The spring continues to run and it is said to be beneficial for the sight. Adjacent to the chapel and spring is a gasthof where the cakes have been said to be otherwise beneficial.

Elend, translated means misery – quite why the chapel was given this name is a mystery to me – but it remains an important point of pilgrimage.

The 30-40 minute walk from the village is certainly no misery, commanding lovely views towards the Hochkönig mountain and along the Pinzgau valley towards Zell am See. Of course there are plenty of benches from which to enjoy the stunning scenery. 

Here are some  of the best benches:

Shady picnic spot in sight of the Gasthof at Maria Elend

Setting a benchmark for longevity

Embach's benches offer great views in all directions - are they the secret of resident's longevity?

Today 23 elderly ladies in Embach received a gift. In this village of 500 people, 23 of them are mothers over 80 years old. Mothers' Day this year falls on May 12 the day when the Eisheiligen (Ice Saints) traditionally breath their last gasp of winter air over us. They didn't disappoint and there hasn't been a lot of celebrating out of doors.

Last night primary school children entertained their mothers with music and song – it is impressive to see how many can play an instruments well enough to perform in public. The programme included accordion, clarinet, french and tenor horn. It is little wonder that the majority of players in the village band, which comprises 10 per cent of the population, are under 30.

So, what do we attribute this longevity and musical talent? Could it be the popularity with people of all ages of walking the circuit round the village? It's a 40-minute walk and along the way are a series of benches which command lovely views of the village and mountains behind.

Each bench is different; nothing formal, sometimes little more than a few boards, sometimes propped against a heustadl (more of these later). Here is a sample with their views. There's no-one sitting on them today, but maybe on a warmer day you will be able to take the weight of your feet and chat with one of the 23 elderly mothers and listen to the band playing.

Propped against a hay barn, this is a popular, sunny bench with a view of the village and Urbar (below)

This bench commands a view into the Pongau and of the Buchberg  (below)

On the village circuit, this bench has a great view of the Klingspitz and houses on the "sunnyside" 

Sheltered from the wind by the hay barn, this bench is popular in summer and winter and is not far from the village

Following in the Pope's wheeltracks

Altöting - a focal point for pilgrims - and cyclists

When Sepp Ratzinger was a lad, he probably wasn't much into cycling as a hobby. The pilgrimage town of Altötting wasn't far from his birthplace along the river Inn, and it is possible he rode there. So, it is curious now, when Sepp is in his 80s, that a 250km bike route has been created in his name. This is the Benedikt Radweg (bike route), a circuit around the places in Bavaria where the present Pope Benedikt spent his formative years.

Bavaria has a veritable web of these long distance bike trails which follow the many small lanes and also farm and woodland tracks. There is the Salt Trader's route, the Salt and Lakes route, the “From Tree to Tree” circuit, the Inn Radweg and so on. The directions are marked with symbols at every junction and the trails interconnect, cross each other, run parallel, split up and re-join.

The Benedikt Radweg's symbol is a bishop's mitre and though the bike route is a circuit, it is best to follow it clockwise. If you do this, Pope Benedikt's symbols will show you the way, if you take the wrong path, his pointers will mostly show the way you have come – and maybe the error of your ways.

Pope Benedikt XVI is not the first well-known person from the region to have his own bike route. The Mozart Radweg takes in both the Salzkammergut (Salzburg's lake district) as well as much of the area of the Benedikt route. It is pretty certain that the great composer didn't ride a bike, but he did travel a lot and may well have followed on horseback or in a carriage, certain of the trails now followed by cyclists from all over Europe.

The Benedikt Radweg is doesn't cover new ground, it merely links places of relevance with existing bike paths and much of it follows in Mozart's hoofprints. The composer's ride was established long before Sepp Ratzinger took the top job in the Vatican, is over 400km long, meandering across meadows, through farmyards and bringing riders into corners of the countryside they would never have found otherwise.

When it comes to bike paths, Mozart was way ahead of Benedikt. However, whomsoever you choose to follow, you will enjoy rolling hills, rural peace, huddling hamlets, and, of course, this being Bavaria, some excellent local beers. And all this is just a local train ride away from Embach.

E-Bikes - are we being taken for a ride?

Cycling to Salzburg through a wood reeking of wild garlic

Cycling along the river bank into the city of Salzburg at this time of year one passes just about every variant of bicycle and rider: creaking uncared-for jalopies with rusty chains and equally rusty riders, sleek racers powered by lycra, sit-up-and-beg continental cruisers with saddles higher than bar stools and enormous handlebars, step-through shoppers sedately pedalled by ladies in Loden coming home from the market, students aboard battered mountain bikes texting as they ride, grandparents shepherding enthusiastic grandchildren.

Meanwhile, shops that a few weeks ago were full of skis, boots and anoraks, are now stacked high with new bikes. But take a careful look – something new is stirring. The trend towards e-bikes (electrically-assisted pedal cycles) has developed from step-through shoppers to electro-bikes of all kinds, especially mountain bikes. These dominate the ranges, knobbly-tyred, with suspension and gaudy with paintwork bling, they are not aimed at those who need help to continue riding, but at a whole new market.

The trend is encouraged by politicians who like to be pictured with “green and clean” transport to boost their environment-friendly cred. However, are e-bikes entirely clean? Are the politicians taking us for a ride? Every e-bike needs to be recharged and given that in Austria most electricity comes from water power, there is a fair case. But the hoo-hah over proposed new power lines is never connected with our increasing demand. The materials used in the batteries and motors and the transport of these and the bikes across the globe is also not considered.

The promotion of e-bikes by politicians has been used by manufacturers as an opportunity to open up a new market. People who already have a perfectly good bike could now spend another €2000 on a power assisted model. Mountain bikes look cool and if they can make riding into the mountains easy, they are bound to sell to those looking for a soft option.

It is hard to believe those that say if e-bikes encourage more people to take to cycling, that they would then buy a traditionally-powered bike - even though they have an expensive electro bike at home. However, it has to be said, that riding an e-bike into the city is better than taking the car.

Just when awareness of the increasing problem of an overweight and under-exercised population is growing, we have come up with a politically-approved way of getting less exercise in a city where every effort has been made to encourage the use of bicycle-power.

The city does not count among the top cycling cities in the world – but it deserves to be. Although not large it has 175km of dedicated bike paths marked by over 900 special bike route signs, offers 5500 bike parking places and even free self service facilities. Where the riverside bike routes reach a road bridge, the path has been constructed to pass beneath the bridge. In summer and even in winter many people travel to work by bike – even when it is -20C and snowing.

In the past 20 years the province of Salzburg has spent €66m and built 660 km of dedicated cycle routes. It is on target to achieve its planned 760 km by 2015. The route from Embach to the city follows the Salzach river crosses one minor pass and meanders through pastures and villages and around towns. At this time of year the spring is at least two weeks further advanced than in the mountains so it is like riding a time machine. And, of course, once in the city, taking bikes in the specially-designated area on the train home is trouble-free.

It's an ill wind

Strong föhn winds are forecast for today and with them, a rich agricultural air is spreading over Embach.

The winds mean there will be some strong feelings about – mainly negative. People complain of aches and pains, bad moods and poor sleep while the number of traffic accidents increases. It is a good thing the schools are on holiday – teachers won't have the problem of classes full of grumpy children.

The föhn is bringing warm air – compared with yesterday's 5 degrees Celcius, it is rapidly rising to 20C. It usually brings strong gusts and will put paid to the last bits of snow hanging around on the north-facing slopes and in odd corners.

At the same time we are enjoying a „dung“ week. The accumulation of muck cleaned out from the cow stalls during the winter is now being spread out on the meadows in and surrounding the village. At present it is only the solid stuff which doesn't cause too much of a pong. But before long the tankers will be spraying „Güle“ which will bring an acrid air to the village for a day or two.

It is all part of the rich circle of life which will ensure the meadows are soon awash with the colours of spring flowers which will be mown so that the cattle will enjoy delcious grass during the next winter indoors.