Only
two letters, a and l, determine whether our post goes to the far side
of the world or comes to Embach. Occasionally the post office makes a
mistake and instead of coming to 5651 Austria, it goes to 5651 in
South Australia. Fortunately, there is a nice man in 5651 Kyancutta,
South Australia, who re-addresses our envelopes and returns them.
So
where is Embach's “postcode twin” and how similar are they? Well,
both are small agricultural communities, both pretty close to the
centre of a continent. But beyond these and the postcode, we don't
have much in common.
Kyancutta
lies astride the Eyre Highway, which crosses thousands of kilometres
of the desolate Nullarbor Plain in southern Australia. Farming is
mainly of cereals and the village is dominated by a huge grain silo.
A look at Google Earth shows a scattering of buildings spread out
along the road with sparse vegetation growing in the rust red soil of
southern Australia.
In
stark contrast, the houses of Embach huddle together on a sunny shelf
of land, meadows and woods rise steeply behind the church and a
stream chuckles its way over a mill wheel and through the village. To
the north, the land drops steeply into the Salzach river valley.
Kyancutta's
glory days lie behind it. First settled in the early 1900s the
township was proclaimed in 1917. Over the years, as the population
grew, a hall (The Institute) was built for functions, a school was
opened, a museum whose minerals attracted world interest was
established, and a cottage hospital cared for local needs. Once there
was an airport where flights between the east and west coasts would
land and refuel and regular train services carried freight and
passengers.
Now
things are looking pretty different. Planes fly over without a glance
below. Children are driven to another town for school and patients
can no longer have minor ailments treated locally. There is a village
store with petrol pumps for the long-distance traveller making his
way along the highway – which connects Perth to the next state
capital, Adelaide, thousands of kilometres away.
The Todd Highway runs south from Kyancuttta |
Kyancutta's general store and post office |
However,
there are some things that haven't changed. That nice man who
re-addresses the mail, Newton Luscombe, Ned to all in Kyancutta, is a
multi-tasker who for years with his wife, Margaret, has maintained a
three-hourly weather observational programme which is fed to the
National Bureau of Meteorology. Ned is also curator of the museum,
school bus driver, silo manager, sexton and probably scorer for the
local cricket club when they can rustle up a team. His daughter has
recently taken over his former role as postmaster and now runs the
post office from the local store.
Kyancutta's main street and store |
Although
Embach is a tight, but flourishing community, with active clubs and
village band, one or two new homes being built each year for growing
young families, it has no museum, petrol pump or post office. It lies
on an ancient north-south trading route along which produce was
carried over the mountains. The church is centuries old and many
houses have along history behind them. The snow we welcome every
winter is never seen in the hot, dusty plains of the Australian
south.
Despite
our differences, we have a postcode in common and whenever a letter
arrives with a Kyancutta postmark and Ned's “G'day” wishes on the
back, I feel a pang of kinship, a sharing of something more than just
four digits.
Embach's huddle of houses and the mountain rising behind the church |
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