Tauernradweg: ride up to a new level

The Tauern Radweg, second most-popular long-distance bike route in Austria, passes within a whisker of Embach…but nowhere is there a sign pointing our way.

Every summer, thousands of cyclists, loaded to varying degrees with what they need for a week or so on the road, ride from the Krimml waterfall to Salzburg and beyond, following the course of the Salzach river.

Turn right here for Embach -the old sign

At one point they reach a crossroads. The bike route maps and signs point them straight ahead, though the green cycle route signs also point left to Dienten and right on the Golddiggers’ route towards Rauris.

Within a week of this blog going live, the sign was changed and Embach was put on the Radweg map.

Although the road to Rauris passes through Embach, not many bike tourists make it here. While they are busy riding along, deep in the valley, they miss a whole new level of enjoyment on this sunny plateau. And if they stay the night, they have the most wonderful start to the following day.

What, then, is the problem? Well, the road to Embach from the crossroads, climbs a bit. There are two hairpin bends and three ramps to climb before the road steadies to a gentler ascent into the village. Total climb about 350m over 5km.

The new sign

Cyclists who are up to the challenge, will find a little bit of non-touristy Alpine Austria and get away from the stream of other riders who flock down the river. The climb is reasonable if you aren’t too burdened with luggage – or riding one of the new electro-bikes.

Embach is a down-to-earth, unpretentious farming village with a few small hotels and guest-houses. Freed from the confines of the valley, it lies amid sunny meadows, with wonderful mountain views, where the weary cyclist can bed down to the sleepy clonk of cow bells.

Next morning, just the thrill of swooping back down the hill would make the climb worthwhile, even if the pleasure of having made it to this higher plane wasn’t enough reward.

Riders inspired by the view of the Hochkönig mountain as they descend, should go straight over the bridge at the crossroads, ride up to Dienten and beyond, via the Dientner Sattel before the long, exciting ride down to Bischofshofen where less adventurous riders on the Tauern Radweg are still plodding along the valley bottom.

A bit of non-touristy alpine Austria, Embach is worth the climb, the descent is a bonus

The campsite overlooks the valley