Friday 28 June 2013

The mystery of the mountain fan dancer



The chapel at Maria Elend
OK, so it’s not been the best of weather this past few days. Last week, baking hot, this week damp and grey. But this weather has its own mystery and charm.

Because Embach is pretty high up, we don’t have to gaze upwards to see the clouds. They scud down the village street, brush the church steeple. You can literally have your head in the clouds.

The mountains around us are dramatically cloaked in swirling mist. It is like being at a nightclub where the dancer with two fans, coyly reveals one tantalising curve after another, but never all at once. We see one part of the mountain, then, as the breeze shifts the mists, another is revealed and the first bit is hidden.

Taxenbach in the valley, glimpsed for a few seconds before disappearing into the mists
In this weather, water seems to seep from every crevice, meadow, hollow and rock. The sound of trickling, rushing, dripping and gurgling accompanies the walker everywhere. Some meadows never dry out and harbour special flowers that thrive on having their feet in cold, wet soil.
The Kirchbach chuckling its way to four capital cities and ten countries
Some flowers enjoy soggy ground



The stream which runs through Embach, the Kirchbach, is busy chuckling its way down into the village where it tunnels under the village centre and emerges to meander its way to the precipice before plunging down into the Salzach. Its onward journey to the Black Sea will take two weeks and on its way it will pass through four capital cities and touch the borders of ten countries.


It doesn’t have to be a brilliant sunny day for a walk here to be enjoyable. The air is cool, fresh, invigorating, inviting. Gulp it down. Fresh air doesn’t get better than this. After all, the sun will be shining tomorrow.



Swirling, dramatic views across Embach 


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